Friday, May 01, 2009
10:45 PM

The Khmer Experience

Cambodia.
27 Apr to 1 May.

One. Phnom Penh. The moment we hit the roads, I felt we were in a really different place. There were more motorcycles and tuktuks than cars. The roads were full of dirt and the air was dusty. Motorcycles were changing lanes without warning, winding around pedestrians while others going against the traffic. And it's only when you are on the tuktuk that you get the full feeling from the dust, traffic, noise and vulnerability to surrounding cars. The way to cross the crazy traffic? Keep walking, never look back, and have faith that the motorcycles will avoid you as they are used to it.

Most people in Cambodia are living in poverty and have led a tough life for a long time despite their glorious history of the Khmer Civilisation. As if life wasn't tough during the French colonial times, the Khmer Rouge had to set their civilisation back to level zero in modern history. This we witnessed at the Choeng Ek Killing Fields, in which many remains of the bodies were found at the fields after heavy rains. The cruelty of Pol Pot and his regime for the sake of power is akin to that of Hitler's regime, wiping out almost the entire educated population.

Memorial at the Choeng Ek Killing Fields

Victims had to dig their own graves before being killed.

This place was found by accident when the heavy rains revealed the remains of the victims.

Honestly the visits to both the killing fields and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Camp helped us understand life under the the Khmer Rouge regime, but all was made clearer after I read the book "First They Killed My Father" by Loung Ung. Among the cruellest punishments were using pliers to pluck out fingernails and dipping the hands into alcohol. Those who executed these were mostly teenagers who were easily brainwashed, and anyone with a questioning mind was immediately "silenced". The most unfortunate that happened - Pol Pot died of heart attack before he could be put on trial. Duch was recently tried and claimed he was merely carrying out orders. It seems there could never be justice for the people who suffered during the regime as the current government still has ties with the Khmer Rouge.

Beds used for torture at Tuol Sleng Genocide Camp.

This building used to be a school.

This cafe has applied for the Starbucks license several times without avail, thus this.

Independent Monument

Two. Siem Reap. The bus to Siem Reap was hot, and blasting local pop music with the tune of Chinese songs and horribly Khmer-dubbed Chinese movies, such that we couldn't even sleep properly.

We checked into Bou Savy guesthouse, somewhat resort-like, situated in the mosquitoes, crickets and lizards infested little tropical vegetation, before heading off to the largest lake in South-East Asia, Tonle Sap, one that supports the Khmer people with water and lots of fish. We call it the teh tarik lake though we would never want to drink from it. But local people think otherwise. They wash their clothes and dishes and bathe and swim in it.

Walking around bottomless. Tsktsk.

Whole lake of teh tarik at Tonle Sap.

Three. Siem Reap. To see Angkor Wat in sunrise, we had to wake up as early as 5am. But we knew monsoon was here when dark clouds loomed as we walked towards the Angkor Wat, and when it started pouring on us when we reached. The rain totally spoilt the morning as it was getting so cold, tiring, slippery and muddy.

Despite visiting during an off-peak tourist season, Angkor Wat is flooded with tourists. What most people don't know is that Angkor Wat is managed by a Vietnamese company, and that very little of the money we pay goes to the people. People actually live in slums in Angkor Wat and there are also plenty of children beggars in there. It's tough to reject these children, but giving them perhaps would only encourage them to continue to beg.

Angkor Thom was the city compound which used to flourish with trade. We entered the gate that was flanked by serpents on one side and gods on the other. This empire eventually became Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia.

One side of the bridge flanked by demons.

Another side by gods.

Reconstructed demon face.

Four faces of Buddha at Bayon.

The topless Apsara dancer!

Intricate carvings still visible centuries later!

Ta Phrom was my favourite as there were many trees growing not beside or under the buildings, but on the buildings. The stone slabs of the buildings support the trees while the roots of the trees also support the buildings, thus these trees are tough to remove. It's so awe-inspiring to see these huge tree roots hugging the buildings and also amazing that the engravings on the stones are still visible after so many centuries. People in the past were also very open, as the Apsara dancers danced topless!

Ta Phrom

The roots wound round the stone slabs like a serpent!

Angkor Wat is so popular probably because of its spaciousness and clear reflection in the pond, which definitely makes it postcard-worthy.

Angkor Wat

We ended the tired day with good food along Pub Street at Khmer Kitchen, dessert at Blue Pumpkin and cheap beer at World Lounge and Soup Kitchen, before ending the night with a Khmer massage, which wasn't the best, but good enough!

Four. Siem Reap. The thing about books in Cambodia, they're all copies, thus are really cheap, like $3! Dinner was snake, crocodile, ostrich, kangaroo, fish and mutton meat for Cambodian BBQ. Snake and crocodile were alright, but my favourite were ostrich and kangaroo.

The staff putting lard on our BBQ plate.

Five. Phnom Penh.

Spices in colourful packages.

Beautiful palace roofs.

Khmer Surin restaurant whips scrumptious Khmer cuisine at affordable prices!

Dinner was Swimming Raja, Red Curry, Eggplant, Pork and Fish Soup!